About Us ...Animals on the Ranch ... Beauty Recipes...  Canning...  Farm Animals... Favorite Animal Links ... Frugal Recipes  ... Home Remedies  ... Low Carb Recipes ... Favorite Homesteading Links... Homesteading Letters... Living Without Electricity ... Homeschooling...  Homeschooling Links...  Countryside Magazine Articles 1995 and 1997 ...First Year On The Ranch


Some of the following recipes and directions are condensed from Elaine White's book, and Gentle Ridge Body and Skin Care

Petroleum Jelly    Skin Cream       Cracked Hands Cream
 Colored Lip Gloss     Lip Balm      Bath Oil       Chapped Lip Balm

 MAKING SOAP:    Emu Oil Soap    Emu Oil Soap 1    Emu Oil Soap II  Ostrich Soap  Achy Day Soap    Serious Skin Pampering Soap

Petroleum jelly is easy to make and it is an ingredient of many other products. Naturalists may substitute a natural oil, such as grapeseed oil or sweet almond oil for the baby or mineral oil to create an "un-petroleum jelly."

1 ounce (weight) beeswax
1/2 cup baby or mineral oil

Melt the beeswax in a microwave or a double boiler. Stir in the mineral oil. Remove the mixture from the heat and stir until cool.

2 1/2 ounces (weight) beeswax
4 ounces (weight) lanolin
2/3 cup baby or mineral oil
3/4 cup water
1 teaspoon borax (sodium borate, CP)
Fragrant oil (optional)

Melt the oil, lanolin and beeswax to 160 degrees F. Heat the borax and water in a separate container to 160 degrees F. Be sure the beeswax is melted and the borax is dissolved. Add the water mixture to the oil mixture while stirring. When a white cream forms, stir slowly until the mixture cools to 100 degrees F. Pour the cream into small, wide-mouth jars.



Lipstick colors this easy formula for lip gloss. This is a good way to use lipstick that is too dark because the gloss will be a lighter color.

1 teaspoon grated beeswax
1/2 teaspoon lipstick
1/2 teaspoon petroleum jelly

Melt the ingredients in a small can placed in boiling water. Stir it well and pour it into a small jar.

½ teaspoon beeswax
½ teaspoon cocoa butter
½ teaspoon olive oil
½ teaspoon honey
1 vitamin-E capsule
Melt beeswax and cocoa butter carefully over low heat in a sturdy pot.
Stir the mixture until the wax is melted, taking care not to splash, then remove from heat and add olive oil.
Stir in the honey as the cream solidifies.
Add the contents of the vitamin-E capsule.
Mix well.
Store lip balm in small container.


This oil has a long shelf life at room temperature.

1 whole egg
1/2 cup baby or mineral oil
2 teaspoons liquid soap or dishwashing liquid
1/4 cup vodka
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup whole fresh milk
Fragrant oil (optional) estimate about 1 teaspoon

Mix all ingredients in a blender for 30 seconds. Use only one or two tablespoons of this oil in a bathtub of water.



Simple petroleum jelly is good for chapped lips, but this formula is even better. The essential oil gently cools burning lips.

1 tablespoon grated beeswax (1/2 ounce weight)
1 tablespoon petroleum jelly
1 teaspoon honey
1 tablespoon lanolin
3 to 4 drops essential oil

Melt the wax, lanolin and petroleum jelly in a microwave. Add the honey and essential oil. Essential oil of peppermint, eucalyptus, wintergreen and camphor all slightly numb painful lips. Stir the mixture until it cools.

with Goatsmilk & Emu Oil

2 T beeswax (heaping)
2 T emu oil
2 T palm oil
3 T almond oil
1 T apricot oil (good for cracked skin)
1 C warm goats milk
36 drops essential oil

Melt beeswax, palm oil, and emu together, stirring constantly. Warm the almond and apricot oils gently, and gradually beat into wax mix. Add warm goat milk slowly to oil/wax mix, beating constantly till cool. Beat in essential oil as mixture begins to thicken. Spoon into jars and label.

one 4-to-6 cup mixing container made of lye-resistant material (I use a stainless steel mixing bowl)
one heatproof container that holds at least 2 cups (use a Pyrex measuring cup)
stainless steel, plastic, wooden spoon or a rubber spatula
two thermometers made of glass or stainless steel (candy and meat thermometers work well)
eye protection (wear sunglasses if you have to!)
rubber gloves (optional)
accurate scale to weight the fats and lye
soap molds (any flexible plastic container works well)
a clock with a second hand or other type timer
wire whisk (optional)
pot holders or oven mitts
measuring spoons

C) The Ten-step Procedure

1) Heat the fat.
Put the fats in a lye-resistant container and place a glass or stainless steel thermometer into the fats. Be sure the thermometer doesn't touch the bottom of the container and give a false reading. Heat the fats and optional ingredients to the temperature specified in the recipe.

2) Put on eye protection and rubber gloves.

3) Use a heat-proof container to measure the amount of cold water (70 to 75 degrees F) specified in the recipe. Cold water is important. If you add lye to hot or boiling water, the water could "boil-up" out of the container. If you add lye to *really* cold water, the lye/water might not reach the high temperatures required to make some recipes. Stir the water and slowly add the lye. The water will get hot and turn cloudy. Continue to stir until the lye dissolves. Don't breathe or intentionally smell the fumes coming from the cup because they will take your breath away!  If you wait too long to stir the water, the lye could harden in the bottom of the container. This is not a problem. You can still stir it, but it will be more difficult. Add a glass or stainless steel thermometer to the lye/water and wait until it reaches the temperature specified in the recipe.

4) When both the fat and the lye/water reach the temperature specified in the recipe, add the lye/water to the fat. It's sometimes a balancing act to get the fat mixture and the lye/water mixture to specific temperatures at the same time. Never place lye/water in a microwave (the cup could break).

It takes lye/water longer to cool than it takes fat to heat. Most soap makers wait for the lye/water to cool to about five degrees above the desired temperature, then heat the fat. When both the lye/water and the fat are within five degrees of the temperatures specified in the recipe. Use a pot holder and move the bowl to a sink (to contain splatters). Slowly pour the lye/water into the fats while stirring.

Temperatures for small one-pound batches of soap poured into individual molds aren't critical. As long as the lye/water and fats are between 120 and 140 degrees F you will have good success. Larger batches or batches poured into a single mold, require lower temperatures.

5) Stir the soap until it "traces."
When lye, water and fat first combine, the mixture is thin and watery. Gradually, as the lye and fat react chemically to form soap, the mixture thickens and turns opaque.

"Tracing" is a term to describe the consistency (thickness) of soap when it's ready to pour into molds.

To test for tracing:

a. Drip some soap onto the surface of the soap in the stirring bowl. It should leave a "trace" or small mound.

b. Draw a line in the soap with a spoon or rubber spatula. If a "trace" of the line remains for a few seconds, the soap has traced.

Tracing is easy to recognize, yet it causes new soap makers a lot of worry. Relax and know that the soap will trace eventually. Just stir the soap constantly for the first 15 minutes or so, then stir the soap every fifteen minutes until it thickens and traces, no matter how long it takes.

6) After the soap traces, add up to one tablespoon essential oil (if desired) and stir a few minutes longer to incorporate the oil. About the only soap that remains totally scent-free is the Pure Soap Recipe that follows. Other fats result in soap that has a "fatty lye" smell. Essentials oils are necessary for a pleasant-smelling product.

7) Pour the soap into molds and wait for it to harden. The recipes states this length of time as 'time in mold.'

8) Unmold the soap.
Soap is still harsh when it's time to remove it from the molds. Put on rubber gloves and press the back of each mold compartment to release the soap. It's a lot like removing ice cubes from a tray. Sometimes the soap doesn't release easily from the mold. To overcome this problem, leave the soap in a freezer for a few hours. Freezing soap causes it to contract slightly, become hard and release from the plastic mold.

9) Wait the time specified in a recipe for the soap to "age" (usually 3 weeks). During the aging time the pH of the soap decreased (the soap becomes mild) and the bars harden. It's a good idea to write the following information on a piece of paper and place it with the soap: the date you made the soap, the date the aging time is over, and recipe.

10) Step 10 is *enjoy your soap!*
As soap ages, a fine, white powder may appear on the surface. This is soda ash (sodium carbonate) formed by a reaction of lye with carbon dioxide in air. This white powder is mostly on the surface exposed to air while the soap was in the molds. Soap that contains wax develops little or no soda ash.

Use the same instructions for making soap with the following recipes

6 ounces weight palm oil (37.5%)
5 ounces weight olive oil (31.5%)
4 ounces weight coconut oil (25%)
1 ounce weight emu oil (6.25%)

2.2 ounces weight sodium hydroxide
6 fl ounces [distilled or softened] water


--this was also formulated on the Majestic Mountain Sage website* for
an emu oil customer wanting to use Palm Kernel Oil in soap. Deena..
0.5 oz. Avocado Oil (3.12 %)
4 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
6.4 oz. Olive Oil (40%)
3.2 oz. Palm Kernel Oil (20%)
1.9 oz. Emu Oil (11.88%)

2.31 oz. NaOH - sodium hydroxide (5% superfat discount)
6 oz. fl. [distilled or softened] water


4 oz. avocado oil
40 oz. olive oil
10 oz. emu
16 oz. lard
10 oz. coconut
add 2 oz. castor oil at slight trace

11.0 oz. lye
32.0 oz. water distilled

Basic Soap Making Recipe

Tallow/lard 16 oz (454 gr.)
Olive Oil 10 oz (283 gr.)
Coconut Oil 10 oz (283 gr.)
Ostrich Oil 6 oz (170 gr.)

Lye (sodium hydroxide) 5.77 oz (163.5 gr.)
Water 16 oz (454 gr.)
During the soap making process 20% of the water is discounted.


6 oz. Castor Oil
14 oz. Coconut Oil
12 oz. Olive Oil
6 oz. Palm Oil
2 oz. Emu Oil

15 oz. water
5.8 oz. lye

Mix at 100°
At trace add 2 oz. Wintergreen and 0.5 oz. Clary Sage essential oils.


16 oz. avocado oil
8 oz. olive oil (not pomace)
8 oz palm oil
6 oz coconut oil
2 oz cocoa butter
2 oz shea butter
1 oz emu oil

16 oz water
5.75 oz flake lye

Follow usual CP soap-making procedures: Melt oils in LARGE non-aluminum pot, mix lye with water in large stainless steel bowl, using part ice cubes for the 16-oz of water and in well-ventilated area; don't walk off and leave it alone at this point. When fats are just melted (NOT hot) and lye is cool enough to hold hand on outside of bowl, pour lye solution into oils and stir. Keep on LOW heat, stirring frequently but not vigorously (don't splash). You may pour when you first reach trace, but I kept it heating for awhile--once it began bubbling like cooking candy, I pulled it off the heat, added EOs and poured into molds--it cured faster with the extra cooking

Goats milk would make this even more luxurious



Some Tips:

Use the Red Devil Lye. Be sure to use only sodium hydroxide. Potassium hydroxide will work but the amounts will be different. Red Devil lye is found in the grocery store. The amount of scent may or may not be enough depending on the strength you are using.

You can wrap them in plastic (saran wrap) if you want. They will get a white, chalky, covering if exposed to the air but this will wash off quickly.

There is no magic in making soap but it does take time and you have to be extremely careful. Your first attempt will yield perfect bars if you measure carefully and follow the instructions.

You could add a little corn meal for grit if you want better grease cutting hand soap.




webpage design by High Lonesome Ranch